Selway River

The Selway¹ is actually the southern branch of the Middle Fork of the Clearwater, one of Central Idaho's largest rivers. From 9,000' headwaters in the Bitterroot Range, the Selway flows north and then west to Lowell, Idaho, where it merges with its sister stream, the Lochsa, to form the Middle Fork Clearwater. In its 90-mile journey the Selway is joined by dozens of tributaries carrying abundant runoff from the wet western slope of the Bitterroots.

Though it begins on a ridge just seven miles north of the Main Salmon's Corn Creek put-in, the Selway has little in common with its giant neighbor. The Selway's lush, intimate canyon and short, intense season contrast with the Main Salmon's more open landscape and reliable summer-long flows. Heavy precipitation in the Selway drainage produces a thick, dark green mantle of fir, hemlock, cedar, and pine. Patches of newer growth show the traces of wildfires that periodically strike the canyon. The watershed's luxuriant vegetation and clean granite soils filter the heavy runoff, keeping the Selway pure and clear.

The Selway cuts through the heart of the vast Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, which has protected the river canyon since 1936. The river's headwaters lie within the adjoining Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness, and the Selway itself is a charter member (1968) of the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Sytem. The 47-mile run described here remains virtually untouched by civilization. The river teems with fish, wildlife is remarkably abundant, crystalline side creeks appear at every turn, and graceful, aromatic old- growth cedars shade beaches of clean, white sand.

Floats begin at Paradise Launch Site, just 32 miles from the headwaters. Here the Selway is an icy flow of fresh snowmelt, its waters hardly warmed in their brief journey down the north-facing upper canyon. From Paradise the Selway runs north for 25 miles to meet its largest tributary, Moose Creek, then turns west and churns with increased power through rock-strewn rapids. Not far downstream from the Race Creek take-out, the river pours over imposing Class VI Selway Falls.

As recently as the late 1970's the Selway, along with a handful of other Western rivers, was seen as one of the ultimate tests in technical whitewater. Today, although far more difficult runs are commonplace, the Selway remains a significant benchmark of wilderness river running skills. At lower flows it is deceptively easy, but a number of rapids change character radically at levels around 4' to 5' (about 2,500 to 3,500 cfs) on the Paradise gauge.

Flow is the trickiest thing about the Selway. Snowmelt season is usually brief and unpredictable. A sudden hot spell or a warm rain can quickly raise the river to dangerous levels. The river's many large tributaries roughly quadruple or quintuple the flow between put-in and take- out. Except at low water, boaters face a run that begins as a technical mountain torrent, then gradually builds into a powerful river with impressive hydraulics. At high flows all but seasoned experts should stay away.

In addition to demanding rapids and fluctuating flows, the Selway's potential hazards include logs, icy water, and unpredictable weather that can turn cold and rainy well into June. Early-season trips usually face all these challenges at once (plus possible snow on the road to the put-in). The Selway canyon is extremely remote and lightly travelled, so evacuation in case of mishap can be very difficult.

Other Runs Above and below the run described in this chapter, boaters can float short sections of the Selway without a permit. The upper river is boatable for about a dozen miles above Paradise Launch Site, with rocky, technical rapids and a short season. A road follows the right bank, allowing easy scouting and access.

It is more common for boaters to run the lower river from below Selway Falls to the Lochsa River confluence at Lowell. The Lower Selway's 13 ft./mi. gradient produces Class II to easy Class III rapids, though some big waves develop at high flows. The canyon is lush and scenic, much like the end of the main run. This 15-mile lower stretch enjoys a longer season than the main Selway run. USFS Road 223 follows the right bank, providing easy scouting and access. Floating begins as far up as Gedney Creek Campground, a half mile below the falls. Among the intermediate accesses is Boyd Creek Campground, about halfway through the run. For more information, see the Idaho guide books listed below.

¹ Academic authorities say the river is named for Thomas Selway, who ran sheep in the area near the turn of the century. Local river runners claim that Selway derives from the Nez Perce word "Sal-wah," meaning "smooth water" or "easy canoeing water." (Those hot-shot Nez Perce -- always underrating rivers!)

Difficulty: IV.
Gradient: 28 ft./mi.
Length: 47 miles.
Put-in: Paradise Launch Site (3,050').
Take-out: Race Creek Campground (1,725').
Drainage Area and Average Annual Discharge: 1,910 sq. mi. and 2,760,000 af.
Peak Recorded Flow: 48,900 cfs at Lowell (May 29, 1948).
Season: May - July. Usually peaks between mid-May and mid-June. Most boating is after peak runoff. Before peak, weather and water can be dangerously cold, and the put-in road is often blocked by snow. Usually too low by early August, but in wet years boats can scrape down after the permit season ends July 31.
Recommended Levels: 800 - 3,000 cfs at Paradise. At moderate levels, flows at Paradise are roughly a quarter to a fifth of flows at the take-out. At higher flows boaters face very big water below Moose Creek (mile 26).
Flow Information: Idaho DWR tape, (208) 327-7865, gives Lowell flow in cfs. USFS, (406) 821-3269, gives Paradise flow in feet. Conversion table below gives a rough correlation between the Paradise and Lowell gauges.
Special Hazards: High water; rapid changes in flow; cold water and weather; logs; remote canyon. The rapids below Moose Creek become nearly continuous at high water, so a mishap could lead to a long, nasty swim.
Permits: Required May 15 - July 31; perhaps the most difficult to obtain in the nation. Roughly 2,000 applications for 62 non-commercial launches (overall odds 30 to 1). Competition is heaviest for the last week of June and the first three weeks of July. The Selway is part of the Idaho four-river permit system. Request application forms after Oct. 1, apply Dec. 1 - Jan. 31 (fee). Call after the lottery for unused dates or cancellations. Maximum group size 16. In especially dry or wet years, boaters can run before or after the permit period.
Managing Agency: West Fork RD, Bitterroot NF, 6735 West Fork Rd., Darby, MT 59829; (406) 821-3269.
Commercial Raft Trips: Three outfitters. Only 16 trips per season, usually booked well in advance. Contact the USFS for a list.
Land Ownership: Almost all National Forest.
Scenery: Excellent. Heavily forested canyon.
Solitude: Unsurpassed. With only one launch allowed per day, it's possible to float the entire run without seeing any other boaters.
Wilderness: Yes. A few private ranches.
Fishing: Excellent for trout (cutthroat and rainbow), whitefish.
Wildlife: Abundant. Black bear, deer, osprey, moose, bighorn sheep.
Water: Cold and clear.
Camping: Very good; better as you move downstream. Many beaches are flooded at high water.
Side Hikes: A USFS trail follows the run, often near the bank, sometimes well above the river. Many other trails climb creeks and ridges.
Side Excursions: Selway Falls, a mile below the take-out.

Guides and References:

• USFS, Floating the Wild Selway. Water-resistant map-guide. Order from West Fork RD.
• Moore & McClaran, Idaho Whitewater.
• Amaral, Idaho: The Whitewater State.
• Garren, Idaho River Tours.

Maps:

• USGS 7.5': Burnt Strip Mtn, Spot Mtn, Gardiner Peak, Dog Creek, Moose Ridge, Mink Peak, Fog Mtn, Selway Falls.
• USGS 1:100: Nez Perce Pass, Hamilton, Kooskia.
• USFS: Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Covers entire run. Order from West Fork RD.
• USFS: Bitterroot NF and Nez Perce NF.

Auto Shuttle: About 275 miles (6 - 7 hours) one way. Contact West Fork RD for a list of shuttle services.
Logistics: The preferred shuttle is via U.S. 12 and U.S. 93, which skirt the north and east flanks of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Please see Western Whitewater,page 44, for details.

Excerpted from Western Whitewater from the Rockies to the Pacific
Copyright 1994 Jim Cassady, Bill Cross, and Fryar Calhoun. Reproduced in cooperation with Fryar Calhoun.